“Proteas could become one of the world’s finest commercial cut flowers, along with roses, carnations, and gladioli, were they plentiful enough”, wrote gardening legend Sima Eliovson in her book Proteas for Pleasure, published in 1965.
Her words were prophetic; Eliovson’s passion for proteas was ahead of its time. Today, every garden centre in Gauteng stocks protea plants suitable for local gardens and protea sales have surged in the past five years.
Autumn is a great time to plant any of the 360 species of the protea (Proteaceae) family. By far the best-known members of the family are proteas, pincushions (leucospermums), cone bushes (leucadendrons), blushing brides (serruria) and the Jurassic-looking mimetes.
Protea grower Hans Hettasch suggests the following tips to grow proteas successfully:
l Plant proteas in groups. Generally, populations of the same species grow in close proximity to each other. This establishes a dense vegetation cover for minimal root disturbance, keeps the soil cool, and helps to reduce the rate of soil-water evaporation.
l Select nutrient-poor soils. Proteas are most commonly found in nutrient-poor soils. Thus, there is little need to add fertiliser. To add small amounts of nutrients to the soil, plant material removed during pruning should be left on the ground to decompose. A well-drained soil is probably the most important requirement for Proteaceae species.
l Mulch your proteas as it helps to reduce weed growth. Mulching also insulates the soil, keeping it cool in summer and warm in winter. It keeps moisture in the soil, helping to reduce irrigation.
l Young plants should be tip pruned after the first six months to a year after planting, generally in spring to late summer. This encourages a bushier, more compact growth habit. The plants can be pruned again to bearers after the first flowers by cutting the flower stem 10cm above the base of the stem, leaving five to seven healthy new leaves. It is also preferable to cut out any weak stems that have failed to flower, thereby encouraging the remaining stems to produce healthier, more vigorous growth. The same can be said for damaged and crooked stems.
Each bearer should produce two to three flowering stems for the next season. These stems will increase in number as the plant becomes older and larger. As the number of stems increases, the length of each stem will decrease and so the removal of a few of the extra shoots will help to increase stem length.
The removal of these shoots is best done early in the growing season, while the shoots are still soft and easy to remove. To keep a natural look, cut only half the stems back to bearers after flowering (go through the bush and cut every second stem). The remaining stems can be cut back to bearers as soon as new shoots start to appear – on the previously pruned bearers. - Saturday Star