Durban - In a place far away and a time long ago, I jumped in and out of helicopters a few times. Now, as the Robinson Raven chopper warms up on the helipad at Cathedral Peak, I have a Nikon camera on my lap, not a machinegun. But that knot in my stomach – of excitement, of fear – is still there.
As pilot Blake of Westline Aviation coaxes the small, canary yellow machine into the air, I marvel at how young he is. So were we, when we played soldiers long ago.
Although my introduction to helicopter flight was in a war, I still love them and whenever an opportunity arises for a flip, I’m up for it. But one of the most awesome chopper rides you’re ever going to get is through the majestic Drakensberg.
You will see these imposing granite and sandstone buttresses from a completely different angle and relish the freedom and comfort of being able to explore the craggy peaks without the pain and exertion of hiking.
As we wind in and out of the mountains, looking at waterfalls and animal tracks, I have a rethink about whether such flights are an expensive indulgence. I’ve often thought that in the past, despite my love of flying and of choppers in particular. But now, I have no hesitation in saying: if a flight around the ‘Berg is not on you bucket list, put it there.
It’s very reasonable too, considering you’re going to see something unique: a 15-minute basic flight is R790 each, but for just R100 more you get the champagne flight, where you will be dropped off, high and alone, to enjoy some bubbly. The aircraft will come back for you later, perfect to propose or to celebrate a special anniversary.
My wife, who had never been in a helicopter before, loves the experience and, predictably, thinks the idea of being flown to a high, romantic eyrie is too amazing to pass up.
The chopper flight is just one of the myriad things you can do at Cathedral Peak Hotel, which is a legend in South African hospitality circles. Established on a farm in the ‘Berg in 1939 by the Van der Riet family, it is still in family hands.
But make no mistake, despite this being a family hotel it is not Fawlty Towers. Service is excellent – efficient but unobtrusive at the same time – while the food is so good that a friend who has been a few times warned me before I left: “Don’t eat for a week before you go.”
For a dinner, bed and breakfast rate of around R1 200 a person per night (including morning and afternoon tea and a host of free activities), Cathedral Peak is not the place for a dieter unless you are strong-willed. Buffet breakfasts and dinners are a feast for the eyes and for the tastebuds. The problem is what to leave out.
Literally. I found it almost impossible to put together a dish (and you can make your own combinations of the type you’ll never get in a conventional restaurant) without backtracking and reconsidering.
There are a number of bedroom options, ranging from thatch-roofed standard rooms with en-suite bathrooms to executive and honeymoon units and the presidential suite if you are so inclined. When we were there, the latter was occupied – although it was not by No 1.
The hotel has a heated swimming pool and a normal cold pool, as well as an on-site gym, squash and tennis courts and bowling green, while adults and kids alike can enjoy Putt-Putt outside and a number of games in the games room inside.
It’s the perfect place to get away for the weekend with the kids – there are a number of rooms which accommodate families in two inter-leading rooms, divided by cottage pane sliding doors and curtains. There is a dedicated kids’ dining room and – thank goodness for those of us who have moved beyond the “kids are marvellous” phase – youngsters are banned from the main dining room after 8pm.
Apart from the helicopter flips, there is a range of other activities, from horse riding to quad biking. We tried the latter, but it wasn’t my wife’s thing, and I think her slow pace frustrated some in our group.
Still, it was good to climb off the quads at the halfway mark of the one-hour ride and take in the beauty around us from the banks of a small trout dam.
Hiking is what many people come to Cathedral Peak to do – there are a number of hikes, ranging from gentle half-hour strolls to a full-on, all-day (nine to 10 hours) slog to the top of Cathedral Peak – only for the experienced and even then it is recommended that you use a guide. The hotel offers a number of free guided walks and these are broken by a stop where you can have a cup of coffee.
On the other hand, being in the mountains, one can feel the peace descend. And sometimes all that hectic exercise can seem out of place. That’s when you grab a book, as I did, and immerse yourself.
What a great way to relax. What a great place.
l Cathedral Peak Hotel: www.cathderalpeak.co.za
Ask them about the helicopter rides, horse-back adventures and quad biking.
One point about going there from Joburg: don’t leave too late in the afternoon at this time of the year, because you’ll need about five hours to get there and the last 20km to the hotel passes through heavily populated areas which, in the dark, can be tricky, as people and animals cross the unlit road. - Saturday Star