Durban - In a world where politics, religious intolerance and fanaticism increasingly play a major role in conflicts, we in KwaZulu-Natal can feel proud of our religious tolerance.
This got me thinking that in the travel industry, KZN’s spiritual acceptance, the beautiful and interesting places of worship and the many accompanying colourful festivals, are largely overlooked assets in our province.
Being in the travel industry, I often hear foreign visitors speak of the privilege of experiencing a fascinating spiritual event or visiting a sacred site.
To see our spiritual tolerance in action, you only have to visit Durban’s city centre around Warwick Triangle, one of Durban’s most densely populated areas.
On the doorstep of what is arguably the largest traditional healers market in the southern hemisphere, is the beautiful Emmanuel Cathedral.
Right next door is the historic Jummah Mosque. Within walking distance is the striking Kendra Hall and Hindu temple. A number of Shembe outdoor churches indicated by circles of white stones under the trees, can be seen on the road going down towards the beachfront and the Durban Jewish club.
On the beach, on any given weekend, an African baptism can be experienced, often to the delight of visitors staying in the beachfront hotels.
So, to put you in the spirit of things, here are a few ideas for locals who haven’t yet realised they can enjoy some fascinating cultural experiences – without travelling overseas.
The Durban Jewish Club
Built in 1923, the lovely, old, red-bricked building originally served as a meeting place for the Jewish community.
During World War II more than 2 million servicemen and women passed through its doors because it was used as a canteen for the Allied forces.
It is still the centre of great activity for all Durbanites with classical music concerts, photographic exhibitions and other cultural events.
A Garden of Remembrance and the Holocaust Centre were established in recent years.
The Holocaust Centre is fascinating and particularly poignant in South Africa because of the inevitable comparisons drawn between the oppression endured by the Jews and the human rights violations suffered during apartheid.
The Circle is an excellent little coffee shop/restaurant next to the Holocaust Centre.
l Durban Jewish Club: 031 335 4450, www.djc.co.za
Holocaust Centre: 031 368 6833, www.djc.co.za
Mariannhill Monastery
Trappist monks established the Mariannhill Monastery just outside Durban in 1885 and went on to build numerous pretty missions throughout the province. Most have striking red-brick buildings, beautiful, almost medieval architecture and lovely locations in serene surroundings. Touring these missions you will discover not just the story of each place, but also their fascinating links to the development and history of the entire province. Seeing a priest riding a donkey being greeted by hundreds of rural people carrying tree branches and palm leaves gathered outside these rural churches during ceremonies such as the Palm Sunday celebrations, has been a fascinating experience for many.
There are many historic churches in KZN, each with its own story illustrating an era in the history of the province. The beautiful Emmanuel Cathedral in Durban with its long association with Denis Hurley, one of the great anti-apartheid priests, is just one.
l Mariannhill Monastery: 031 700 4288, www.mariannhillmonastery.co.za
For great mission tours: Steve Kotse: 082 318 224
The Temple of Understanding
Brightly painted towers of Hindu temples peek out from behind trees and buildings throughout the province. Many of these temples are heritage sites and places of interesting festivals. The Sri Ambalavanaar Alayam Temple in Cato Manor built in 1875 is one of the oldest shrines in the area.
Also heritage sites are the Sri Ganesha Temple at Mount Edgecombe built in 1899 and the Sri Jagannath Puri Temple near Tongaat.
The Temple of Understanding in Chatsworth is a must-see with its unusual steeples, a domed roof adorned with massive depictions of the Life of Lord Krishna and a popular restaurant downstairs serving delicious vegetarian food. Visitors are welcomed and tours can be arranged.
Most interesting, fun and fascinating for visitors though, are the many Hindu festivals celebrated throughout the year at which all are welcome.
These include Diwali, the festival of lights celebrating the triumph of good over evil, the Holi Festival or Festival of Colours celebrating the arrival of spring and Ratha Yatra or The Festival of Chariots in March or April. Enormous wooden chariots are pulled through the city by devotees and huge gatherings of people share fabulous Indian food and showcase traditional Indian dance and music.
l Temple of Understanding: 031 403 3328
www.drikpanchang.com/calendars/hindu/hinducalendar.html?l=22474
The Buddhist Retreat Centre
This year, CNN voted the Buddhist Retreat Centre in Ixopo one of the world’s 10 best meditation retreats. The centre is enormously popular with people from all faiths and walks of life, and both local and international visitors. It is situated in a most beautiful natural environment. Nelson Mandela awarded it heritage status. A variety of weekend courses, as well as longer retreats are offered, often with visiting teachers and monks of international stature. Known for its fantastic vegetarian food, the centre has also produced two enormously popular cookbooks. It is well worth a visit, if only for the peace and quiet that fills the soul.
l The Buddhist Retreat Centre: 039 834 1863, www.brcixopo.co.za
Rock Art
Drakensberg
The Drakensberg San lived in small hunter-gatherer groups in the caves in the mountains of what is now the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg World Heritage Site. It is believed that San shamans painted many of the 8 000-year-old rock paintings during sacred trances. The rock art, considered some of the best in the world, depicts spiritual connections to nature, rain dances and other shamanic experiences. It also depicts historic events such as battles and even the arrival of the Europeans in the region. Some great places to see this sacred work is at Injisuthi, Giants Castle, Kamberg, Cathedral Peak and the Royal Natal Park.
l Rock Art: Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife 033 845 1999, www.kznwildlife.co.za
For all tourism inquiries contact Tourism KZN: 031 366 7500, www.zulu.org.za
The Shembe Pilgrimages
Although essentially Christian in nature, the Shembe also incorporate elements of African traditional beliefs.
Strongly associated with nature, their outdoor places of worship are indicated by a circle of white stones. Three major Shembe festivals as well as numerous other mass gatherings take place annually, and are well worth attending.
The first, held on the first Sunday of every new year, is the 80km, 3-day pilgrimage up Nhlangakazi, the holy mountain.
Services with energetic singing, shield-waving warriors, men in kilts and pith helmets, bare-breasted maidens and traditional matrons in matching beaded finery, take place with beautifully choreographed dancing accompanied by slow drumbeats and the deep tones of an imbomu, a long horn many believe was the forerunner of the popular plastic vuvuzela used at soccer games.
The other festivals take place in July at various places around the province.
The Shembe are used to visitors at these fascinating festivals and make them feel very welcome.
l Zululand EcoAdventures, 035 474 4919; e-mail: [email protected] organise tours to Shembe festivals or contact KZN Tourism (see above left).
The Jummah Mosque
A tour around one of Durban’s landmarks, the Jummah Mosque, formerly known as the Grey Street Mosque, gives a wonderful perspective and some useful facts about this often-misunderstood world religion. From humble beginnings in 1884, the mosque was extended over the years and is still considered one of the largest in the southern hemisphere.
It was from here that Nelson Mandela first addressed Durban’s Muslim community on his release from prison. Visitors can book a most interesting tour around this sacred site to admire the gilded simple, domed minarets and marbled worship hall with its enormous richly coloured carpet. The tour includes some history of the Durban Muslim community, Muslim architecture with reference to the architecture of the mosque and a basic outline of Islamic beliefs. Booking is essential.
l Jummah Mosque: 031 304 1518
Sunday Tribune