Johannesburg - It was a lump-in-the-throat moment as the female leatherback turtle moved laboriously down the beach until she hit the waves. Then she slowly disappeared from sight, having done her utmost to give another generation of turtles their best shot at life.
A short while before we had found two turtle hatchlings floundering in the sand after having been attacked by ghost crabs. They were trying to orientate themselves and head for the ocean - where other predators no doubt waited.
Somehow the next day seemed infused with extra vigour… but then time spent in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park often has that effect. So many activities, sights and smells, make up the often perfect hand that nature deals.
Days could unfold something like ours: Arriving at the Hluhluwe River Lodge, we set off for a walk in the surrounding sand forest, as the setting sun filtered through the trees. We glimpsed the orange and black stockinged legs of male nyala, while a shy red duiker melted quietly into the undergrowth.
Owner of the lodge, Gavin Dickson, told us how, back in 1996 when there were rumblings about the area being declared a World Heritage site, Mervyn (Gavin’s dad) and a business partner felt the time was ripe to get into eco-tourism.
“While looking for a pristine piece of forest, they came across a sign saying ‘trespassers will be shot,’ and decided to investigate,” said Gavin. Finding their dream location, they built their lodge, and Gavin and his wife Bridget became involved on the marketing side.
Eventually the older Dicksons built a house for themselves, with a superb view over the Hluhluwe River floodplain. This has now been turned into the luxury self-catering Mkhulu’s House - an extension to Hluhluwe River Lodge.
Sitting on its deck, we could see the waters of the lake at False Bay, as well as part of the route of the four-day iSimangaliso mountainbike race (which takes place from August 20 to 23 this year and operates in reverse, starting at the estuary in St Lucia).
This popular event, now in its third year, allows participants to explore the eight ecosystems of the park - from the splendid views of the Lebombo mountains, to an unexpected encounter with wildlife in the uMkhuze section of iSimangaliso.
Cycling through sand forest, thornveld and open grasslands, almost all on single track routes, through both the Eastern and Western Shores of the park all add to the adventure.
Visitors to Hluhluwe River Lodge can check into comfortable or luxury chalets tucked into the forest, where they will find romantic sleeping nets, soft beds, Victorian-style baths and showers, with free Wi-Fi.
Or they can self-cater and if they wish, take meals at the lodge, which is ideally placed for day visits to Sodwana Bay and St Lucia (both one hour away) and just 20 minutes from Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve’s Memorial Gate.
A flock of pelicans and flamingos on the waters of False Bay, and a array of birdlife on the Hluhluwe River floodplain add to the excitement.
Visitors can also learn more about local history in the fascinating little Errol Harrison Museum on the property; while meals served on the large deck with a view are delicious.
Our next adventure was to join Martjin Verbeek’s experienced crew at Hluhluwe Horse Safaris. Martin is the new licensed operator for riding trips in the False Bay Park section of iSimangaliso.
Eight horses cater to riders of varying degrees of expertise. Many saddles have special stirrups to ensure a safer ride for less accomplished riders. There are two circular rides, through the sand forest with time spent on the shores of the lake, soaking up the scene.
The longer two-and-a-half hour ride, for more experienced riders, goes as far as Sandy Point. It is a great way to get to parts of the park which are not accessible to vehicles.
Martin plans to have special cameras which can be mounted on the front or the back of a rider’s helmet, giving a view of the ride unfolding.
The False Bay Park camping grounds are again open after years of drought. The campsites offer beautiful views across the lake; the Ingwe Hiking Trail here is easy and scenic; the unique Lebombo wattle (Newtonia hildebrandtii) offer shade.
Locals say this is the quietest, most under-utilised of the parks. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Dugandlovu Rustic Camp has huts with basic comforts and kitchen facilities. Guests provide their own bedding.
While turtle tours can be done at different spots in the park, we checked into Rocktail Beach Camp, in a dune forest.
I spent happy daylight hours on the deck of my luxury tented accommodation (where a large white pear tree flourished).
While visitors can snorkel; undertake a more dramatic deep-sea dive through the Rocktail Dive Centre; or head for freshwater Lake Sibaya; for many the most memorable activity is the night-time drives to spot turtles laying eggs, or to watch hatchlings emerge around 60 to 70 days later.
Tours start in November and go on until March. During our visit, the drive along the beach, with waves rolling in and a moon peering from a bank of clouds, it was glorious.
Finding hatchlings was extra special, but with the potential for tragedy. We knew that very few make it safely to the water, and the thousands of ghost crabs waiting to end their short lives, did not exactly endear themselves to us.
The female leatherback we encountered had already laid her eggs. Watching her trying to disguise her real nest, by laboriously digging sand with her powerful flippers a distance from the true nest, made me feel sad. But, as she swam away down the moonlit pathway in the sea, she was a touching inspiration.
Contacts:
* Hluhluwe River Lodge 035 562 0246; 083 787 3439.
* Hluhluwe Horse Safaris 035 562 1039; 083 254 5055.
* iSimangaliso MTB 4 Day www.isimangaliso-mtb.co.za. l Shane on 083 626 5450;
Ezemvelo Reservations 033 384 51000. l www.kznwildlife.com;
Rocktail Beach Camp. l www.wilderness-safaris.com 011 257 5111.
* iSimangaliso Wetland Park www.isimangaliso.com 035 590 1633.
The Sunday Tribune